the ‘aha’ moment
View from the Wither Hill’s vintage house in Blenheim, NZ.
Everyone has one. The specific bottle that changed your entire mind about wine, where everything clicked into place, an epiphany, and you then spend a lot of time chasing this feeling. For many, it’s the impetus for acknowledging your passion for wine is more of an obsession and subsequently starting a career in the industry.
My ‘aha’ moment was during my second harvest, in Marlborough New Zealand in 2017. I was trying to decide if I even liked wine. Coming off my first harvest in Napa, I was enthralled by the chaotic but controlled nature of winemaking, the lively international community, and the opportunities for travel. On the other hand, wine itself felt very intimidating, unapproachable, and expensive as a recent college grad in Napa without much prior experience. And after the recent election, I was wondering if I should be using my ecology degree for something more ‘sustainably focused’. But the temptation to go on an adventure in the southern hemisphere was too tempting, so I decided to give one more harvest a try.
I spent the harvest working the night shift at Wither Hills in Blenheim, the mecca for mass-produced Sauvignon Blanc where hundreds (or more) of young international winemakers descend on this tiny rural town for a few months to make an absurd amount of wine. I had the time of my life. During our days off, when we weren’t cooking elaborate meals from our home countries, drinking copious amounts of beer, and inventing games around the vintage house, we slowly checked off visits at the dozens of wineries close by. I was improving my tasting abilities, gaining confidence, and also more at ease in the Kiwi’s relaxed environment. But eventually, all the Sauvignon Blanc started to blur together with only slight variations in each label’s notes of ‘grassiness’ or ‘tropical fruit’ that are so indicative of Marlborough’s ‘Sauvy B’.
One day we piled into a van and visited Seresin Estate, about twenty minutes down the road. It was a rainy day and we were greeted by an adorable golden retriever accompanied by a man in plaid pants. We tucked into the cozy, no-frill, tasting room. Expecting a Sauvignon Blanc similar to the others we had tried in the valley, I was shocked when I tried the Marama 2016 SB. I had never had a wine that was so uniquely itself. It was expressive and characteristic of Marlborough, but with an unexpected uniqueness and element of surprise that I hadn’t felt in other wine. A creamy mouthfeel that paired with a citrus and tropical palette. It was the first time I really focused and wanted to know more about how it was made; the 18 months in barrel and malolactic fermentation that gave it its richness, the indigenous yeast its character, the biodynamic farming of old vines the structure.
I was in a state of euphoria. And now reflecting back I realize, that while it is an amazing wine, it was also a moment of feeling comfortable, curious, and welcome to learn more. At the time I was so green I didn’t even really understand what biodynamic viticulture was, or native fermentation, but in retrospect, it makes perfect sense that this was my ‘aha’ wine.