Reflection on Representation
For an industry that is centuries old and steeped in tradition, it can be hard to change things in wine. But in the wake of George Floyd’s killing in 2020, it felt like the wine industry finally started making some necessary changes, specifically taking BIPOC representation seriously. There was an explosion of new organizations as well as increased media attention to ones that were already established. Almost four years later, I thought it would be interesting to reflect on where the industry is now, the progress that has been made, and highlight some organizations, producers, sommeliers, and journalists moving the wine world forward.
Decolonizing Wine
I had never really thought about how Eurocentric the wine industry was until I read sommelier Miguel de Leon’s article, It’s Time to Decolonize Wine, in June 2020. In the article, he highlights the language we have been taught to describe wine. In particular, how traditional wine vocabulary, tasting grids, and aroma/flavor wheels are “biased to Eurocentric flavors, and crucial wine vocabularies can center on foods completely foreign to my Very Asian Palate, like the description of body akin to the fat content of milk products or the essence of a flavor component wrapped up in a fruit I have never even heard of. (Seriously, what in the actual fuck is a gooseberry?)”. I also don’t know what in the actual fuck is a gooseberry, or why we always say notes of ‘tropical fruits’ instead of highlighting them as individual flavors. In 2020 the WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) planned to modify its teachings to move away from such a Eurocentric focus which is great, but I am not sure how this is progressing. In Boston, Alice Achayo, aka The Wine Linguist, hosts wine tastings, classes, and events focused on amplifying diverse voices in the industry, focusing on the agriculture, and also specifically pairing wine with cuisines of the global south.
The Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) decided in 2023 to end the use of the terminology “Old World” and “New World” as descriptors for wines originating from Europe and ‘not Europe’ respectively. They did this to “uphold historical accuracy and eliminate cultural bias”. For many, including myself, referring to wines as Old World and New World felt silly and a prolonged effect of centuries of colonialism, especially considering that Europe brought winemaking to the ‘New World’ to spread Christianity. Instead of using Old World and New World to simply describe the origin of the wine, people began to use these terms to signify the style of the wine, claiming Old World Wines are lighter in body, lower in alcohol, and more terroir-driven (connected to the land, agriculture), while New World Wines are more fruit-forward, full-bodied, and have higher alcohol levels. This just simply isn’t true. There are plenty of terroir-driven, low-alcohol, high-acidity wines from countries all over the world, like the U.S., Chile, and New Zealand. And there are also plenty of full-bodied, fruity, high-alcohol wines produced in Europe, like many Tempranillos in Spain. The CMS committing to end this vocabulary is a big step forward and I am excited to hear less and less of “old world versus new world” in the future.
Pushing the envelope even further in decentering the focus of Europe in wine is ABV Ferments. ABV stands for “Anything but Vinifera”, vinifera meaning the species Vitis vinifera, the grapevine used to cultivate grapes for wine that is native to Europe. ABV is a non-profit organization that uses its platform to bring together producers, farmers, and communities using hybrid grapes, regional fruit, and native agriculture to make wine and promote the sharing of resources. And yes, growing vinifera in Europe (and anywhere else) makes sense, it makes great wine. But it is also important to celebrate the cultures that have been making wine without this species, and that those wines are just as much ‘wine’ as the others fermented with vinifera. ABV highlights groundbreaking producers like Kalche Wine Co., making delicious natural wines from hybrid grapes and local fruit all produced and packaged sustainably.
Events, Tastings, and More
Wine is having an identity crisis. Sales are down throughout the U.S. (and the world), and young drinkers are gravitating towards hard seltzers, canned cocktails, and craft beer. It feels like a backlash of the wine industry’s decades-long branding as a sophisticated drink that you need prior knowledge of to enjoy. It can be intimidating to ‘get into wine’, especially for people who don’t see themselves represented at tastings and events. But things are changing and there are people making wine cool (and accessible) again.
Wine for Me, founded by Brooklyn native sommelier Joan de Jesus, is a wine club that focuses on creating community. Hosted at a variety of venues, and always on Sunday evenings 6-9, Wine For Me curates a fun soundtrack and thoughtful selection of natural wines for drinkers of all backgrounds, ethnicities, and exposures to wine. To make the events accessible, De Jesus always makes sure there is at least one bottle $12 or less on the menu. By intentionally reducing the stigma of wine and creating a space for people who feel underrepresented, Wine For Me has created fun and welcoming parties that are for everyone's palates. Similarly in LA, Mas Vino Please, who often shares information about natural wine on Instagram making it more accessible, has also started hosting events that are welcoming to all, like her Bunz and Vino party this summer, celebrating Colombia’s Independence Day with hot dogs, arepas, and natural wine. It looked like a blast and it's exciting to see more events that not only help wine reach a wider audience but also are actually fun to go to and not a stuffy tasting. There are also organizations like Uncorked and Uncultured, a wine, lifestyle, and wellness organization amplifying black entrepreneurs and advocating for black consumers through events, marketing content, and their Sip Consciously directory, helping people find black-owned wineries, shops, wine bars, and distributors.
Resources for Professionals
And finally (if you’ve made it this far) there are a ton of organizations that were highlighted a lot back in 2020, but should be continually highlighted as places providing support to wine professionals in the form of grants & scholarships, mentorship, and networking. These are also organizations that members of the wine industry can reach out to to offer job opportunities, mentorships, or donations. These organizations do so much work in helping more and more people of color enter the wine industry, whether through hospitality or production, which in turn trickles down into making more consumers feel seen in the people who are making and pouring their wine. Some of these organizations include The Roots Fund, Association of African American Vintners, The Veraison Project, Black Wine Professionals, and Wine Unify, but there are so many more.
That’s all!
Reflecting on the progress the wine industry has made in the past few years has left me feeling optimistic about what’s to come. I also acknowledge that there is still a lot of work to do, and I am continuing to learn how I can help and connect, especially while living in Spain, considering it feels like much of the progress being made is in the U.S. But what excites me most is that the efforts to open up the wine world are creating many more creative and fun opportunities and new connections.